Tuli and Botswana Overall

Tuli (September 27 - October 1, 2016)

Living life on the edge, thinking you will die every day? Well, that was my Tuli Block experience, out in the wild doing safaris, surrounded by nature and indigenous animals. This area isn’t very touristy yet, so animals aren’t used to humans. We rarely encountered other people ourselves. That’s a bonus compared to some other safari hotspots where you’ll see another 50 jeeps packed with tourists every day.

For those of you who read my Kanye (Botswana) post, then you know I stayed with a friend. Lucky us, we could tag along on a group trip they were already planning to Tuli and could save money in that way. We rented a combi (small bus) and a private driver to take us to the site since regular bus services don’t exist on that route. At the site, we had separate huts to sleep in with en-suite bathroom and a kitchen and a common area to share. We had to purchase all our groceries ahead of time because there aren’t any stores nearby.

Before we even arrived at the site we saw a giraffe, a couple zebras, and impalas (giraffes are rare in this area, so we lucked out). This got us in the adventure mood and on lookout for other animals. Around our huts, baboons always monkeyed around.

 Sitting on a hill enjoying the view. Photo credit to Joni.

Sitting on a hill enjoying the view. Photo credit to Joni.

The first night we grilled meat over a fire. After dinner, my travel buddy and I stepped away from the campsite fire to gaze at the stars before being driven to our hut that was located a 3-minute walk away from the others. At night, the distance isn’t safe on foot because of the animals. Right when the driver turned on the car, the headlights shun on this huge hyena! Wow, we were few yards away from this beast that can chomp through metal. Humans could have been on its dinner menu. What I learned later is that hyenas usually don’t hunt themselves, but wait for the leftovers of the hunting animals. That’s why they eat lots of bones. The grilling meat must have attracted them, but still scared the heck out of me and got me frightened for the rest of the stay. I don’t know much about these safari animals and it was too late for me to research because we had no internet out there. For your own comfort, I’d recommend prior research. We did get to hear many facts from our safari guide during our stay.

The first safari was bright and early in the morning. We got to see parades of elephants. Funny how easy they blend in with the scenery regardless to their size even if someone else points them out. The elephants south of Africa are aggressive. Hence, we could never get very close without an elephant warning us that if we come any further, it will run us over. Wasn’t much of a problem until we returned to camp. Elephants had found their way to our camp and even with warning not to leave the kitchen, a guy in our group couldn’t resist to step out and look. Not long after I heard a ruckus and felt the ground shake, and the guy came back in the kitchen to me praying that the sound will stop and that the kitchen won’t go bye-bye with us inside. I got to live another day, just to be charged at by a leopard the following day.

 The leopard just chilling. Photo credit to Joni. (Lost all my pictures when my camera broke.)

The leopard just chilling. Photo credit to Joni. (Lost all my pictures when my camera broke.)

Leopards are one of the rare animals to encounter during a safari. During our second safari, we crossed path with another tour group, which had spotted the leopard and informed us of its location. It took a few minutes before we laid our eyes on that beautiful creature. The guide warned us not to stand up in the jeep because then the cat will feel threatened and attack. With the warning in mind, he drove us only a few yards away from the leopard to get a good view. The same guy, who almost got me trampled by an elephant, was sitting on the vehicle side furthest away from the animal and wanted to get a good picture. So, he stood up! Not long and the animal came charging down the hill. I was sitting the closest to the animal and thought I was a goner. The guide’s gun was still in the case. There is no way he can get the animal before it can get me, which the guide confessed himself later. He started driving off instead. Thank goodness the leopard wasn’t interested in pursuit. I’m getting real angry at this guy now. He could have gotten a picture from anybody later, but instead is risking lives. Don’t go on a safari with a person only absorbed with his own agenda. He also stood up when we saw lions, but at least they were sleeping couldn’t have cared less due to being tired of hunting the day before.

Besides the animals already mentioned, we saw bunch more. To list a few: eland, warthogs, wildebeest, meercats, jackal, crocodiles, springhare, rock dassie, klipspringer, dik-dik, and guinea fowls. We even entered the hyena den where I spotted a baby hyena along with the adults. We also climbed this hill for a fantastic overlook of the area (which even had a cave painting). There was an eagle soaring around us. Pretty epic.

 Leopard starting to charge at us.

Leopard starting to charge at us.

The bush dinner was less epic. On our last day, we attended an overpriced bush dinner. I didn’t know what to expect. The décor was romantic, having candles all around us. The local food was average. But without entertainment or providing more interesting information, the dinner was essentially eating and leaving. Not worth the price we paid.

Something else I didn’t appreciate was the way we discovered a small bat: under the mosquito net of my bed. The bat sound woke me up and I turned on the light. Right next to me was this flying mouse. I initially wasn’t alarmed and calmly shooed it out, but then I was reminded that bats often carry rabies and I haven’t gotten the shot. So now knowing that this bat was in our hut, it probably could find its way back inside the bed net, and that I potentially could catch this virus. This thought got me scared and kept me awake for the remainder of the night. Foaming from the mouth has never been a fashion trend.

At this point I had enough of my safari adventure and was looking forward to drive away from all these animals I don’t understand. I’m super happy I have gotten to experience such an adventure and would recommend going at least once. If you go, just be sure you are with people that will follow the guide’s directions, except if you want to end up as lunch. I developed an even higher respect for these animals and have stories I won’t forget for the rest of my life.


Cost breakdown of Tuli (4 days with total cost of $231.81. Average daily cost is $57.95.)

  • Accommodation: $126.99 (4 nights)
  • Transportation: $29.23 (private combi)
  • Food: $30.69
    • Meals: $7.30 (1 meal)
    • Groceries: $23.39
  • Miscellaneous: $44.90
    • Safaris: $18.71 (3 safaris)
    • Bush Dinner: $26.19

Botswana Overall

 Didn't expect this bird in my hostel courtyard on my first day in Gaborone.

Didn't expect this bird in my hostel courtyard on my first day in Gaborone.

Botswana is still quite untouched in terms of tourism. Per Lonely Planet though, this country is the spot to travel to in 2016. From a safari stand point I could see how a jeep tour through the landscape to observe animals would be much better without viewing bunch of other photo-snapping tourists. This kind of remote experience is probably more awe striking and exciting.

Besides safaris, I would recommend to skip any other part of the country. Though mostly safe, the country doesn’t have much else to offer and needs to work on their social norms (check out my ‘Kanye’ post if you don’t know why I’m criticizing the social norms). In addition, accommodations are disgustingly expensive in comparison to other countries I’ve been to. If you plan to visit Botswana, I’d recommend to do your safari and to get out right after.


Random facts I’ve encountered:

  • “Little house” and “side dish” means to have another partner outside of a relationship
  • Commenting on smell of the food when cooking is rude, even if intended as a compliment
  • You won’t see a stray dog, but often hear them barking at night
  • Due to heat, locals might walk around their property only wrapped in a towel

Gaborone and Kanye

Gaborone (September 13- 15, 2016)

If you are looking for white people in Botswana, Gaborone (Gabs) will probably be your best bet. Gabs is the capital and is probably one of the few places that has multiple activities to offer, besides a lonely grocery store and few shops. Decked out with multiple malls, there isn’t much more to do here.

Lonely Planet featured Botswana the vacation destination of 2016. Because the country is slowly running out of diamonds, the government is relying more on tourism to bring in money, hence they bumped up accommodation prices. We stayed in Gabs for 1 night and paid $21.50 for an outside of town location with no frills, pretty much only bed and shower. Expect this rate throughout the country. The hostel was very clean though.

 Peacock in the hotel courtyard

Peacock in the hotel courtyard

Even though we only spent one night here, we did come into Gabs multiple times. Mostly for transportation transfers, but we’d always grocery shop because the options in the other towns are limited. If you have dietary needs or want a distinct item, I’d recommend you get this in Gabs before moving on. We stocked up before going to Kanye.


Kanye (September 15- 27 and October 1- 14, 2016)

This is a town 2 hours removed from Gabs. Transportation was super cheap. For a 2 hour combi (small bus) ride, we paid $1.80. In Kanye, we stayed with our friend who was volunteering for Peace Corps. We even got to visit a school since our friend was teaching there. She’d already resided here for 1 year and had plenty of experiences and cultural insights to share. And there was plenty of cultural shock for me. I’ve never experienced something this extreme. Where I felt uncomfortable leaving the home! I’ve gotten a kiss blown to me from a bus driver. An old stranger stated I’ll be his wife as he passed by. Constant staring and hollering from majority of males. Any young, white female should mentally prepare for this if you stay in a Botswana town. The only way to avoid this is being with elders. They respect older people and won’t catcall if they think you are with your parents. I’d even tried holding hands with my male travel partner to get them to stop. Only slightly effective tactic. Probably because they believe in ‘side dishes’ or ‘little houses’, meaning that you have a mistress, even if you have a girlfriend or a wife.

 A vegetable called rape

A vegetable called rape

Females in this society are blamed for everything and often mistreated. Rape is acceptable in this society. I know this because our Peace Corps friend teaches sex education in high school. A cab driver opened a conversation about Aids, which Botswana has the 3rd highest rate for. He claimed the spread of this disease was all due to the females having multiple partners, denying any fault of males. The sad part is that girls will sleep with older guys to get material items, hard for them to get otherwise, and condoms are frowned upon, because it dulls pleasure. This causes many of these young girls to get pregnant and drop out of school. Not only are abortions illegal and punished by death, as soon as the girl is a mother, she is considered an adult, it doesn’t matter if she’s 12; whereas older women won’t be viewed as adults if they don’t have a child. This encourages birthing even without proper means of taking care of the child. Women have a harder time getting financial stability. A woman is the father’s child until she’s married, then becomes the “husband’s child” by law. If the husband passes away, then she will become the child of her brother or some other male figure. Denying them many rights.

Though females are treated like crap, animals have it worse. I’ve seen kids throwing rocks at cows. I heard stories about pets being abused by other community members. I’ve never seen a stray dog in Botswana, but hear them at night. There is just a lack of respect for the vulnerable.

Now you think “at least in your home your safe from being bothered.” Ha! This religious country pushes their views on anybody. Our friend, who is staying here, holds non-Christian views. This one guy would project his voice over the property wall while she was in the kitchen cooking, trying to convert her. She tried to be friendly about the situation, saying she is not interested, but this is not understood here. He constantly pressed on and attempted this conversion 3 times during our stay, attempts lasting 10 minutes or more. This is not the way to persuade a person. Only closes them off to possibilities and giving religion a bad name.

 Got used to taking a bucket bath

Got used to taking a bucket bath

I want to move on from the rant and talk about something positive. Botswana is the poster child for development. After the discovery of diamonds, the government spent a lot of the profits on developing the country. Many of the homes now have running water and electricity. Yes, water might run out biweekly for hours or days at the time, depending on the location, and electricity can shut off for hours, overall the living conditions are decent. If staying with locals, expect to take a bucket bath for showers are luxury features. What’s a bucket bath? You are in an empty tub with one bucket full of water and are pouring the water over you with a cup, completing your shampoo routine this way. This method is much more environment friendly than a shower that on average goes through 5 gallons of water per minute. Other luxury items like washing machines, laundry machines, etc. don’t exist in regular homes either.

While we stayed in Botswana, the country was celebrating Bots50, for the country’s 50th anniversary. Very cool for them, but that brings me right back to another rant. I’m sorry. The government gave out millions of dollars for town to decorate themselves for the festivity. Majority of decorations were limited to piles of rocks being painted in the colors of the flag. This money could have been spent much wiser on improving unemployment rates or education instead of sloppy “art”.

 Decorating for the Bots50 celebration

Decorating for the Bots50 celebration

There is much more I could add to the topic of Botswana, but will leave it be. Feel free to ask if you are curious! Despite my disagreement of Lonely Planet’s choice for 2016 concerning this mostly boring country, if you think that you shouldn’t visit Botswana because what I’ve said so far; I want to let you know that there is a valid reason for visiting. Safari! I went on a safari here and will tell you all about my experience in my next post. I nearly died….. So be sure to come back for my next post!


Cost breakdown of Gaborone (2 days with total cost of $127.40. Average daily cost is $63.70.)

  • Hostel: $21.52 (1 night)
  • Transportation: $100.83
    • Bus: $87.75 (initial buses to town)
    • Taxi: $13.08
  • Food: $5.05 (1 meal)

Cost breakdown of Kanye (24 days with total cost of $172.26. Average daily cost is $7.18.)

  • Transportation: $12.50
    • Bus: $8.32
    • Taxi: $4.18
  • Food: $159.76
    • Meals: $10.05 (2 meals)
    • Groceries: $149.71

Side note: In Kanye, we bought the groceries for our friend as well, since she let us stay for free. Hence a third of the grocery bill should be adjusted off to account for 1 person only.